For some time, made briefer than it should have been by his untimely death in 2004, Stephen Sprouse was to fashion what Andy Warhol was to art: a social commentator, a superb executor of simple ideas and most of all, a New Yorker. Before launching his brand, Sprouse lived in the same building as Debbie Harry and art directed several of Blondie’s music videos. Autumn/Winter 84 was his first proper collection, held at the Ritz Club on New York’s Lower East Side with thousands queuing to get in. Transgender model Teri Troye opened the show in a waist-length blonde wig and cut-out orange sequin mini dress. The collection (a series of cashmere and alpaca pieces in acid neons printed with Sprouse’s signature graffiti writing) as well as the audience (a mix of fashion editors and downtown club kids) ushered in ‘the mix’, that New York-brand of hi-lo punk that lived and died with Sprouse – it’s earliest, irreplaceable version did, anyway.