Set up in the mid-noughties by designer Shayne Oliver and artist and director Leilah Weinraub (whose latest endeavour is the documentary feature Shakedown, exploring the black lesbian strip club of the same name in Los Angeles) Hood by Air has always been exceedingly good at dissecting identity with nuance and precision. The finale of Shayne’s Autumn/Winter 14 show began, with pleasing symmetry, like the show itself: with sculptural bodies emerging from a cloud of smoke. Wearing identical blonde wigs, Hood by Air trousers and a naked torso, the models erupted in an ecstatic, high-energy voguing performance, to a soundtrack by Total Freedom and Juliana Huxtable entitled ‘10 000 Screaming Faggots’. Arriving at a time when the intersection of black and queer culture was beginning to face increasing commercialisation with little actual shifts in power, the performance – combative but delicate, an homage but not an invitation – was an uncompromising statement.